There is something undeniably British about gooseberries, and yet it is one of the most underrated fruits. That is, despite its affection for the wet and cool UK climate, it is profoundly difficult to obtain in supermarkets. Find it in a farmers market and you probably will be paying a fairly high sum, while it rarely appears in restaurant meals; even during season time. We all know that you can whip up a crumble, fool, meringue pie, curd or a sauce with this ingredient. But it seems to be, or to me anyway, that there is so much more we could create with this unrecognised berry. Being sour in flavour it is rather akin to rhubarb. That is, they both have a fondness for elderflower, orange, ginger, custard and almond, besides fatty meats and oily fish.
Serves approximately 8
Ingredients
300g Amaretti biscuits
50g butter, melted
600g cream cheese
2 tbsp. plain flour
175g golden caster sugar
Vanilla extract, a capful
2 eggs, plus 1 yolk
150ml soured cream
300g gooseberries, topped and tailed
5 tbsp. elderflower cordial
1. Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C, gas 4. Blitz the biscuits in a food processor or place in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin. Mix in the butter and press into a 20cm spring-form tin. Bake for 5-10 minutes. Leave to cool slightly and place in a fridge.
2. Beat the cream cheese, flour, 150g golden caster sugar, eggs, egg yolk, soured cream and 3 tbsp. elderflower cordial together.
3. Put the gooseberries, remaining sugar and cordial into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook gently for 5 minutes until they are just soft but still hold their shape. Tip into a sieve over a bowl and leave to drain.
4. Gently fold the gooseberries into the bowl of cheesecake mixture. Pour the mixture into the tin over the biscuit base and bake for 40 minutes. It should then be set, but slightly wobbly in the middle. Allow to cool entirely and then chill for 2 hours.
