The Bell at Yarpole, Herefordshire

Yarpole is just like what you see on the British postcard of a village. Cottages and black and white houses opulently decorated with vibrant flowers, a timber framed church, an old red phone box and a pub. But Yarpole’s local The Bell is not just any pub – it is owned by Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi’s brother Cedric. I guess you could say it is the cheap and nonchalant alternative to Bosi’s Hibiscus in Mayfair, London. But when I say ‘cheap’, I certainly do not mean this in the degrading sense. I have been to The Bell for lunch a number of times since the new owners took over and I can certainly say that the food deserves such positive words that it has received from reviews in the national newspapers. The menu as a whole can come across as very simple, and perhaps even uninspiring, fare. But once sampling the food, I think you will find that it delivers beyond this preconception.

Yesterday when I was treated to the delights of The Bell I was more than impressed by my Battered Haddock with Chips and Mushy Peas. In fact I would say that it was the most pre-eminent fish and chips I have had in a seriously long time, if not in my whole existence. The batter was fresh, un-greasy and crisp. The thick cut wedged chips were seasoned so perfectly, not over salty, that there actually was no need to even use any sauce with them (this is coming from someone who likes plenty of sauce). The mushy peas were pure, unlike the distasteful tinned version that so many fish and chip shops make the mistake of using. It may have cost £9.95, but when the average chippie now charges about £6 for an over greasy portion, I would much rather pay the additional £3.95 as an occasional treat. A Coffee and Chocolate Liégeois, an adaptation of the French’s sweetened coffee sauce, coffee ice cream and Chantilly cream dessert Café Liégeois, followed this. Not only was the sauce and dark chocolate ice cream intensely divine and non-sickly, the coffee ice cream made by local producers September, was more than just superb. For £5.25, this was an excellent bargain when you consider how chain restaurants often charge more or less the same price for their sweets, which are no where near as superior in quality. Overall The Bell is an outstanding pub for food, charming scenery and value.